This summer have been epic so far.. at least the wind. Last weekend we had some good north east winds! Instead of driving to a beach up north we stayed at Lars house and surfed the home break!
This past week I started working at my new job. This means a more interesting job, but also more freedom as I wrote in the last post. Me and Lasse my surf buddy who is the guy I developing Hapfind with, worked on Monday and a couple of hours the next day before it was time for the first lunch break surf session. We went to a place called Oljehamnen just outside Vänersborg. We have surfed there a couple of times before and the wind direction was pretty good.
Later on this past week we the wind picked up again and we where able to long board at another spot in Lake Vänern. Really good week!!
Last night I looked at the recordings from earlier that day, and was very happy when I saw the result. The videos almost looked as good as it felt… witch isn´t normal if you ask me. The wind was perfect, the sun was going down behind Dalbobergen, the water was warm and the surf felt goooood.
Next week I am starting a new job were I can be even more flexible with the hours so I can jump in the water when it´s good surf and work when it isn´t.
This is one of the rides I got out there.
After a couple of good days up in Hoddevika Andreas and I said goodbye to all the old and new friends we had meet. Twelve hours later I was home, another six hours I was at work… Life feels weird some times.
A couple of hours in to work earlier today Lars called me and asked if I couldn´t get of earlier since the wind looked really good and the sun started to come out. I just got back home from a surf trip but why not get some more surf at the lake. I am glad I got the afternoon of since the surf was probably one of my best at Vänern. We surfed until sunset and now I am trying to figure out which Alt-J song I should use to the recordings.
Today is the last day of the trip all the bags are packed, the board I rapped in bubble plastic and we are ready to go. We are going to driveng up to Ryan’s mom tonight and spend the night there and then she be driving us to the airport from there. The flight departs at 3pm.
We didn´t want to finish the trip without scoring some good waves here in San Diego, so we did a last desperate surf yesterday and we scored big time.
We went to a super localized spot were all the older people thought that the wave belonged to theme. A lot of trash talk from them, but that didn´t stop us….
Thanks Erica for taking all the photos during this trip!!!
See you guys in Sweden!!
After spending a couple of perfect days in La Paz Erica, Dylan and I headed north. If I didn´t mention we bumped in to Dylan at the ferry and decided to tag along to Loreto. After talking for a while it turned out that we were going to the same places and had about the same amount of time doing it. Instead of traveling together only to Loreto the new plan is to travel together all the way to Ensenadas.
We spent the night in Loreto and had breakfast with when of Dylan´s friends he met on the way down here. We hit the road again, but only drove for about one hour before we found this beautiful beach with now people and warm water. After one hour or so at the beach it was time to start putting some km behind us.
We drove through mountains, dessert and a fog dessert the stretched for hours. Finally we showed up on the pacific side again at a place called Bahia Asuncion. We staying at a place called Bufdor Inn which is owned by a Canadian called Shari.
That’s it for now and hopefully there will be some waves here tomorrow ….
Tonight we are going to try out some Mexican microbrewery beer. Later
From Puerto Escondido Erica and I travelled four hours north to place called Ixtapa. We found out that Ixtapa is more like a resort town and we had some hard time finding a reasonable priced hotel. After a while we ended up paying 400 pesos a night. We spent my 26th birthday on Isla the Ixtapa. Erica hand planned everything and the snorkeling there was amazing.
After a couple of days a big swell hit the whole coast and all the beaches were closing out. After studying the map and forecast I found a place that might work on that kind of swell and boy it did. This is just a couple of photos from there. The movie will be up in a day or so.
Later tonight we going to jump on a 16 hour buss to Mazatlan. We going to spend one night there before catching the ferry over to Baja California and La Paz.
Finally we arrived to Puerto Escondido even though the buss from Tapachula ended up taking 12 hours instead of 8. We got here at noon, and then spent the rest of the day waling around to get to now the place a bit. The next day we figured out what beaches that had any waves and then walked to one of the smaller once since the main beach “aka” Mexican Pipline were suppose to be huge. We got the a beach called Carizarillo. It is probably one of the cleanest and most beautiful beaches I ever seen. Especially after all the dirty and almost black beaches in Guatemala. To bad the waves wasn´t as good as the beach was clean. In the afternoon the wind picked up a lot since a smaller Hurricane hit south of here, and I didn´t go out at all. We can defiantly feel that it´s hurricane season now.
Tomorrow we are planning to wake up earlie and try out “La Punta” or the point down at Zicatela.
Erica and I spent a couple of days in Paredon. I only surfed twice there since the waves were kind of closing out. After that we went up to northern Guatemala, another small fishing village called Tilapa. On the way to Tilapa we passed through Doles and Chiquitas banana plantation. Endless fields of banana trees.
In Tilapa we stayed at the beach once again. Unfortunately the waves was even worse here and I didn´t go out at all, we still had some good days with a lot of tanning. I also got some time to get restarted with my old alwaysinwater project.
I snaped some photos of some driftwood covered in fishing net. Seems like it´s a lot of ghost net floating around there in the ocean…
At the moment we are sitting at a internet café in Tapachula. From here we going to catch a ten hour bus to Puerto Esondido. If the surf isn´t good there I don´t think there is any surfable waves anywhere 😉
After some more days of travelling and a night in Escuintla Erica and I finally arrive to Paredon a small fishing village in Guatemala. We are staying in a two floor bungalow with a perfect ocean view. The only thing we are waiting for now is the waves. Last night was a night off thunderstorms rain and wind, so the water is still a bit rough after that.
Well i guess I can´t complain since the surf actually starts to look better now 😉