Since I was stung by the jellyfish I spent most of my days on land in the shadow. Erica and I also went to get some medicine for the inflammation the other day. This morning I feel find and I am going the get into the water again. The swell started to pick up last night so this morning it suppose the be really good, and some decent size. Maybe today is the day to get a proper tube đ
I put together some recordings from the first couple of days here.
When Johan and I went to Mr Black island earlier this year, we had decided to record that trip from the begging to the end. As always I thought I had more batteries than I really had. So when we got to the island the batteries died and that´s the end of the movie so far. I am planning to edit the clip a bit more when I am getting some new material, but this is what i got so far
I looked trough some of my old videos from Gran Canaria. I found this clip that Lars recorded from the beach and I recorded from the water. Its not the best two waves, but when I looked at the time saw that I caught them during one minute. Not in the movie though since I am playing in slow motion. For a Swedish surfer catching two waves in one minute is quite rare. So when it happens it deserved
it´s own video đ
This is second and last part of my recordings from Gran Canaria. This was also the last surf we got on this trip. Not a bad ending.
Now a week later I am sitting in my kitchen calculating mathematical statistics and looking out the window were I see snow and Christmas illumination. Quite a contrast…
Got some goPro recording from today and yesterday. This is the spot that we figured worked best during the conditions we had the last couple of days. The wind is side to offshore, and the waves are breaking pretty clean.
Saturday lunch Lars and I left VBG for some real surfing. We were heading for a new spot and we were meeting up some other surfers out there. Since we wanted a sunrise session we had rented a house with the other guys. Ill guess it wasn´t a bad thing that we could drink some beers and talk about all the EPIC waves we surfed both in Sweden, and around the world the day before surf.
Jonas which is the name of the other Vänern surferdude that I have surfed with before, had some unfinished business. Last time he got the sickest ride I ever seen someone get in Sweden. I think it was tubing a little bit that time. Well this time i made it equal with the wave you going to see in the go pro movie. Not even close to tubing, but probably the longest wave I have got in Sweden. Not a bad day at all. As I said out in the water ” feels a bit like Hawaii”, and it did đ
Next time going to be a opening and some “tutorials” đ