Efter att ha hoppat surfen igår och väntade jag och några polare in stormens maximum som skulle vara idag efter lunch. Efter stor nyfikenhet kommer vi äntligen fram och brytet är sig inte alls likt mot var det var en dag tidigare. Vi möts av minnstsagt stormvindar. Det ligger redan en kille ute i vattnet. Han fångar en liten en sekunders våg och tar sig snabbt in till land. Några polare snackar med han och han rekomenderar inte att gå ut pga strömmarna. Smarta som vi är tänker vi inte mera på det. Det kommer en bil med yterligare tre surfare redan färdig påklädda och jag och Lasse paddlar ut tillsamans med dem. Det var inga enkla förhållande och man kunde inte riktigt ligga på samma ställe som vi gjort dagen innan. Efter en studn ser jag att vi bara är tre kvar. Jag får en väldigt lite stormvåg som känns väldigt krafftig trotts sin ringa storlek. Jag paddlar sedan ut igen för att lägga mig i position och ligger där ett tag. Sedan kommer det in några stora vågor som jag duckdivear under och helt plötsligt ser jag att jag har börjat dras utåt. Det andra ligger kanske 20 meter längre in men dess 20 meter växer snabbt till iaf 50 på bara några sekunder. Jag börjar desperat försöka paddla innåt men innser att det är omöjligt. Jag slutar paddla och tror att nu e det fan slut. Jag är utanför viken och jag börjar dra lite åt ena kanten när en kille också börjar driva utåt. Får kontakt med han och säger “detta var ju inte någon höjdare” och han säger “VI MÅSTE FAN TA OSS IN!!!!” och så kommer det en “jätte” våg. Driver tillslut in med strömmen längs klipporna.
Även om inte vågorna ser jätte stora ut på bilderna kanske, så syns det ju om inte annat att det är rätt stormigt och alla som var ute idag i det 2 gradiga vattnet vet vad jag menar och hur stark ut strömmen var. En utav mina få gånger jag har varit rädd när jag surfat trodde jag inte skulle komma i Sverige. Respekt till alla som var ute idag och framför allt moder natur. Nästa gång paddlar jag ut mer försiktigt.
![IMG_7323 [1600x1200]](http://alwaysinwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/IMG_7323-1600x1200.jpg)
![IMG_7321 [1600x1200]](http://alwaysinwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/IMG_7321-1600x1200.jpg)
![IMG_7320 [1600x1200]](http://alwaysinwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/IMG_7320-1600x1200.jpg)
![IMG_7318 [1600x1200]](http://alwaysinwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/IMG_7318-1600x1200.jpg)
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![IMG_7311 [1600x1200]](http://alwaysinwater.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/IMG_7311-1600x1200.jpg)
fan vad kallt det ser ut!! kul att du får lite surf även i svea!.. men du får ju va lite rädd om dig:)
Tänker ju alltid två gånger innan jag gör något 😉
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